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Manaslu Circuit - Day Eleven

Tachi Bagarchhap, Gandaki Province, Nepal

AliceNorton created this post on June 20, 2025 June 20, 2025

The other side of Manaslu, as seen from Bimthang

Mountains, donkeys and cottages - sums up our expereince

Swollen river valley we walked down with mountains peeking through

Meditation cave

More river valley walking

Friends at lunch

Fresh garden veggies always

• Start point: Bimthang, 3700m • End point: Tilche, 2260m • Total ascent: 258m • Total descent: 1627m • Distance travelled: 20.12km • Time walking: 6hrs 59min • Hot showers: 2 • Level of DeJa Vu going back down the valley: infinite • Meditation caves found: 1 • Meditation caves meditated in: 0 ...

Start point: Bimthang, 3700m
End point: Tilche, 2260m
Total ascent: 258m
Total descent: 1627m
Distance travelled: 20.12km
Time walking: 6hrs 59min
Hot showers: 2
Level of DeJa Vu going back down the valley: infinite
Meditation caves found: 1
Meditation caves meditated in: 0

Last night when we arrived in Bimthang we had no idea how close the mountains were. Today we were woken up by Mayla again, yelling at us about how clear it was outside! Why is it always the days we plan to sleep in when this happens?! We looked out our window and realized this town was perched just beneath the back side of Manaslu, and we were treated to an amazing morning view of it!! We got up and packed, and had breakfast while enjoying the last of the views before the cloud rolled in (predictable at this point)!

There’s not a lot to say about today, it was 20km down the valley and most of the time it was pretty clouded in. It was nice being back in the trees, and we felt a weird sense of going back in time, as we quickly moved through all the different vegetation/ecological environments we had climbed up in the week prior! We took a short detour to find some caves, which were more of a Buddhist meditation spot. Very damp and cold, not sure I would want to meditate there!!

We had a delicious lunch in a spot calle Gho, and again got the pleasure of watching the women pick and wash the greens she was cooking for lunch in front of us. It sounds so simple (and it is) but our awe is so indicative of how far removed we are from our food systems we are in the west, most of the time.

The last seven kilometres or so after lunch were on the road and went quickly, and we arrived in Tilche late afternoon. The other foreigners we met in Dharamashala were also staying at the same place, so we all spent some of the afternoon and evening together trading travel stories and our upcoming plans. This place also had hot showers which was such a treat, the first time since Pokhara!!

It was here we also had our next decision to make. We had to be in Kathmandu on the 22nd of June to arrive at Kopan Monastery, so if we really pushed we would have time to speed run the Annapurna circuit as well. We were already acclimatized and feeling strong physically at this point, but also pretty tired. Mayla also told us that we could jump in the jeep tomorrow with the others that were staying with us, either to Dharopani (where we could split off to Annapurna) or to Besisahar, where we could get a bus back to Pokhara. After lots of back and forth we decided to push through and try and give it a go, knowing that time would be tight but it would be so worth it for the Annapurna views.

We all had dinner together and got an early night, still feeling the exhaustion from the previous day.

BrianDNorton

7mo

You never fail to amaze me with information in each blog we are really being spoilt with such detailed information

Manaslu Circuit - Day Ten

Thoche, Gandaki Province, Nepal

AliceNorton created this post on June 20, 2025 June 20, 2025

Two happy travellers on Larke Pass!

First morning light started at about 4:30 AM

Glacier views in and out of the cloud

Once the sun started to hit the peaks it got so beautiful

The views around us

Gentle but consistent climb to the pass

The highest altitude marker for us

Viewpoint just above the past

Despite the clouds it was still amazing views from the top

Admiring the peaks around us

Celebrating at the top!

Compulsory pass photo shoot

Some of the landscapes around the pass

In all our layers waiting for the sun to hit us

It felt really alpine all the way up here

Horse and foal on the way down! Cloud had really set in now

• Start point: Dharamashala, 4460m • End point: Bimthang, 3700m • High point: Larke Pass, 5160m • Total ascent: 729m • Total descent: 1478m • Distance travelled: 16.89km • Time walking: 8hrs 7 mins • Snickers eaten: 3 • Elevation signs seen: 18 • Taylor Swift albums listened to: 1 It’s a weird f...

Start point: Dharamashala, 4460m
End point: Bimthang, 3700m
High point: Larke Pass, 5160m
Total ascent: 729m
Total descent: 1478m
Distance travelled: 16.89km
Time walking: 8hrs 7 mins
Snickers eaten: 3
Elevation signs seen: 18
Taylor Swift albums listened to: 1

It’s a weird feeling waking up on the day that you have been waiting for the entire trek, and finding yourself in the middle of a literal cloud. Trekking in Nepal during monsoon was never our original plan, but the experience we have had over the last ten days has been unforgettable. Yes, there have been cloudy spells, and no, we haven’t gotten those famous 360 degree panoramic mountain views, but we have had so much fun and had some absolutely amazing weather. All that being said, I would be lying if I said that my heart didn’t sink a little when I realized it wasn’t clear on our equivalent of a “summit day”. Today we were climbing another 730m up to Larke Pass, skirting along the side of the glacier before descending down into the Dudh Khola valley.

Once we were awake my lingering nerves about the climb were forgotten and it became a game of moving through the motions. Josh did not get much sleep at altitude unfortunately, but I somehow managed quite a deep five hours or so before the alarm went off at 2:45 AM. We all had a quiet breakfast in the tea house together before heading off in the dark. We were wrapped up in nearly all our layers, including puffer jackets, raincoats, beanies and gloves. Even after looking at the map, we were surprised at how gentle the climb was! I think New Zealand makes you tough. We seem to love to create routes where it doesn’t even seem possible to do so, and this felt like a really gentle five kms up to the pass compared to what I expected. It slowly got light, and although not totally clear, the immediate cloud around us dispersed and we got some very cool views of the peaks on either side of us. Even though it was gentle, it wasn't by any means easy, and after about three hours of slow pole planting and lots of stops to catch our breath, we made it to our high point.

In classic Nepali style the pass was covered in prayer flags and stickered signs, and we got heaps of photos while admiring the view and enjoying some well deserved snickers bars. I felt a mixture of relief and admiration for what we had achieved. Something about this trek that was especially cool is that we started so low, on foot. For lots of treks in Nepal you will get a jeep (or even a plane if you’re in the Everest region) to over 2,000m, often closer to 3,000m! We walked from 860m above sea level to 5,160m which feels like such a cool achievement. As to be expected, reaching the pass really gave us the Himalayan mountain buzz and we’re already excited about when we can come back again to these magical mountains.

There is no other way to describe the way down apart from long and steep. Josh was fighting the no sleep scaries and I was fighting some sort of stomach upsets. It dragged on for what felt like forever!! They had trail markers every 100m (descent) and this was a nice way to measure our progress. Once we were over the pass we had views in the other direction, towards the Kanguru ranges. These were pretty clouded over but we got a few peeks at some different peaks.

With some Taylor Swift in the AirPods, we made it all the way down to Bimthang before lunch. It was cloudy here but much warmer than the top had been, and we spent the rest of the afternoon tucked up having a well deserved nap. It had been a big day, and I was so proud of how we both coped with the altitude, the challenging descent and the early start.

mountaingoatmat

7mo

This looks epic!

BrianDNorton

7mo

What an achevment you must be very proudj

Manaslu Circuit - Day Nine

Samagaun, Gandaki Province, Nepal

AliceNorton created this post on June 17, 2025 June 17, 2025

• Start point: Samdo, 3850m • End point: Dharamasala, 4460m • Total ascent: 635m • Total descent: 42m • Distance travelled: 6.32km • Time walking: 2hrs 44mins • Pages of dragon books read: 623 • Working head torches: 1 • Other foreigners spotted: 2 After yesterdays adventure we treated oursel...

Start point: Samdo, 3850m
End point: Dharamasala, 4460m
Total ascent: 635m
Total descent: 42m
Distance travelled: 6.32km
Time walking: 2hrs 44mins
Pages of dragon books read: 623
Working head torches: 1
Other foreigners spotted: 2

After yesterdays adventure we treated ourselves to a sleep in, with the alarm not going off until 8 AM!! We knew we had a super short day ahead of us to get up to Dharamasala, but the altitude was now no joke. Still, it was lower than yesterday so we figured it couldn’t be too bad?

It was a blue sky morning and we slightly regretted not getting up earlier, as that really is the key to the best views. We were on the trail by about 9:30, following the trail from yesterday through Larke Bazar and finally saying goodbye to the Budhi Gandaki River!! We’ve been following this river since day one, and although we’re still following a tributary, it was a strange feeling!! From Larke Bazar it felt like a pretty constant uphill battle. Packs felt heavy, legs were tired and the altitude rudely seemed much harder then yesterday! It was less than three hours though, so not much to complain about really.

Earlier in the trip we nearly thought we weren’t going to be able to stay in Dharamshala, as someone had told Mayla it was closed for the season. We were so pleased that it was open and we didn’t have to do the push to the pass in one day from Samdo! The accommodation here was basic but totally adequate, and we were joined by the first other foreigners we had seen on this trip, a couple from France and Switzerland. No one (including us) was very chatty though, we all just felt like resting. There was still lots of sun so we sat outside and forced down some cheese and tuna spaghetti. Eating anything at this elevation isn’t really the most appealing, but we knew the carbs would help us tomorrow! We spent the rest of the afternoon lying in the sun and reading - I’ve absolutely demolished the Fourth Wing series on this trip and I’m convinced we’re in perfect dragon territory. Josh went for a wash/swim in the river, and we both sat up on the moraine reading and soaking everything in.

Our room was one of many in a row in what seemed to be a prefabricated type building, but inside it was a stone floor, with wooden beds built on top of the stacked rocks. The mattress was comfortable so we weren’t complaining, and we would be getting up at 2:45 AM anyway. It was very basic (I won’t submit you to an explanation of the toilet), and up here there is no power either.

We all had dinner together at 6:30 PM, and then we packed/sorted our stuff for the morning and got tucked up. We both read for a bit before trying our best to get an early night.

BrianDNorton

7mo

Gosh what challenges and you seem to readily meet them, sleep is so essential and tiredness must help with different beds and accommodation

Manaslu Circuit - Day Seven

Samagaun, Gandaki Province, Nepal

AliceNorton created this post on June 16, 2025 June 16, 2025

Samagaun in the morning

Manaslu lit up by morning sun

Samagaun monastery

Manaslu deity with Manaslu behind

Breakfast with a view

Birenda lake

Chörten with Juniper Pine

Swim at 4000m

Samdo views

• Start point: Samagaun, 3530m • End point: Samdo, 3850m • Total ascent: 505m • Total descent: 172m • Distance travelled: 11.39km • Time walking: 5hrs 5 mins • Marmots seen by Alice: 3 • Marmots seen by Josh: 0.5 • Swims at 4,000m elevation: 1 And on the seventh day of our trek, Mayla gave to ...

Start point: Samagaun, 3530m
End point: Samdo, 3850m
Total ascent: 505m
Total descent: 172m
Distance travelled: 11.39km
Time walking: 5hrs 5 mins
Marmots seen by Alice: 3
Marmots seen by Josh: 0.5
Swims at 4,000m elevation: 1

And on the seventh day of our trek, Mayla gave to me… finally a shorter day!!! It was an easy 11km from Samagaun to Sando, including a stop off at a monastery, the glacial lake sitting below the Manaslu glacier and of course, a swim. We weren’t gaining that much altitude either. But at this height you seem to notice the difference even when it’s only 300m.

We were woken up at 5:30 by a knock on our door from Mayla who wanted us to come up to the roof and look at the mountains, a little random but very sweet of him and they were beautiful. And it was only 15 minutes before our alarm. Despite the shorter day I was adamant we would start early as the clouds had been coming in earlier and earlier, and the best weather had consistently been first thing. After a coffee we were walking at 6:30 AM with a packed breakfast of chapatti and boiled egg. The first stop was the Samagaun Monastry, a beautiful complex that felt comfortingly nestled in the mountains. The main room was decadently adorned, but there weren’t any rituals happening while we were there. I’m always in awe of the peace found in Buddhist monastic compounds, and paired with the juniper smoke all through the air and the mountains so close you feel like you could touch them, I think this was my favorite monastry yet. We had a short look around before heading onwards (and upwards) to the viewpoint over Birendra Lake. The clouds were periodically hiding the peaks, but we still had a lovely breakfast overlooking the glacier and ice shelves further up on Manaslu mountain, discussing routes and expeditions and future dreams. We backtracked a little to get to the main trail again, but none of us minded seeing as it was such a short day.

From the main trail, it was an easy three hours up to Samdo following the river. Again, there were a tonne of yaks (and babies) and I also spotted three Marmots which was cool, I had never seen them before. (We spent a good few days thinking these were called Mongoose, but a quick google once we got back to WiFi cleared that up). We spent a lot of the walk discussing logistics for a Dhaulaguri expedition, something I would love to come back and do with more of my family, which was a fun way to pass the time. After crossing the main branch of the river just before the climb to Samdo, Josh found us a great swimming spot. At this point it was warm and windy, so we all got in for a quick freshen up. And boy was it fresh!!! Straight from the mountains for sure. A luxury of a shorter day was being able to stop and relax, and we thoroughly enjoyed lounging in the sun after our swim.

The final climb up to the village was short but steep, and anything steep really tests the lungs now. We arrived at our tea house and had a big lunch of Dahl Baht, and were busy napping and reading in the sun room while considering if we spend the afternoon resting or try and get up a couple hundred more meters to help with acclimatization. Very quickly a howling wind came in and all but made our decision for us. The WiFi wasn’t working (hence why you’re not seeing this right away), so we spent our time reading, napping, playing games and doing yoga. Although it’s nice to have these places all to ourselves, I do wonder what the vibe would be like in season - I’m sure you would meet some great people and have a lot of fun, especially on afternoons where you’re parked up!

We had an early dinner and went to bed with tea, chocolate and our books, as we would be attempting a big day trip up to the Tibet border tomorrow! By nightfall the clouds had totally packed in, and we went to sleep with fingers and toes crossed for clear skies in the morning.

BrianDNorton

7mo

Even in these these high mountains food seems readily available

Manaslu Circuit - Day Six

Samagaun, Gandaki Province, Nepal

AliceNorton created this post on June 11, 2025 June 11, 2025

The two of us in front of Ngadi Chuli

Mayla with a cute trail mule

Walking through the village and enjoying no pack!

View back to Samagaon

Lunch stop on the way for some locals

Water break

The trail through the rolling meadows was breathtaking

Our wonderful guide Mayla

Yaks! Baby yaks!

Ngadi Chuli, spot the avalanche

More yaks

Stoked when the top of Manaslu popped out from the clouds

Manaslu and monastery

Instead of the usual one or two monks, this place was busy today

Incredibly special to meet His Holiness Tenga Tulku Rinpoche

Back at the mani wheels on the way home

• Start/end point: Samagaun, 3530m • Total ascent/descent: 614m • High point: 4,020m • Distance travelled: 15.2km • Time walking: 6hrs 49mins • Yaks seen: 253 • Reincarnated lamas spoken to: 1 • Namastes exchanged on the trail: 49 Today was a rest day!! By which I mean we walked over 15km up t...

Start/end point: Samagaun, 3530m
Total ascent/descent: 614m
High point: 4,020m
Distance travelled: 15.2km
Time walking: 6hrs 49mins
Yaks seen: 253
Reincarnated lamas spoken to: 1
Namastes exchanged on the trail: 49

Today was a rest day!! By which I mean we walked over 15km up to 4000m to acclimatize further, and of course enjoyed the absolutely incredible scenes around us. We’ve both had a few symptoms from the altitude but nothing major, and to be honest it’s hard to differentiate altitude sickness/diamox side effects/dehydration/tiredness! We’re focussing on lots of rest and good nutrition and more water than we think we could possibly need.

We treated ourselves with a 30 minute sleep in until 6:30 AM, but quickly decided that was the last time we’re doing that as the best time of day really is the morning. We got on the track about 7:30 and back tracked for about 30 minutes to get to the turn off up to the monastry we were visiting today. It was nice to walk this meadow section again, taking in the mountains this time and of course the monsoon flowers. The morning views were so special. We had full 360 views of the mountains all around Samagaon, and as we turned up the river it only got better.

The ascent felt great without a pack on, of course we’re going slowly but we’re also feeling really steady and pretty strong. We walked up the river for about an hour before the track opened up to rolling green meadows and ever increasing close up views of Ngadi Chuli (7,871m) and Manaslu (8,163m). From here it was a gentle climb up to the monastery for another hour or so, surrounded by literally hundreds of yaks!! Seeing as its early summer there were lots of babies around too, so cute. We stopped for many photos, and were just in awe of everything around us.

When we reached the monastery we stopped to have an early packed lunch of chapati and hard boiled eggs, and to try and entice a few of the yaks and baby horses to come closer, with no luck! Having a picnic under the mountains was such an unreal moment, a reminder of what we are here for.

This monastery is a great acclimatization walk, but lucky for us, today was also a special puja or celebration day, so it was buzzing with energy. A number of the villagers had come up, as well as the monks from surrounding monasteries. They were chanting, praying, offering and we were lucky enough to get to join in. We had taken up an offering of ghee and also white scarves to place on the altar. It was a huge honor to be a part of these ancient Tibetan rituals in such a sacred place.

In total we spent about 2 hours at 4,000m before heading back down, which gave our bodies a good opportunity to adapt further. The walk down was much quicker of course, but made all the more interesting by encountering a monk who introduced us to a very special 11 year old boy. This boy, or I should say His Holiness Nyima Döndrup, is the reincarnation of Tenga Rinpoche. Tenga Rinpoche was a revered lama in the Karma Kagyu lineage of Tibetan Buddhism, who escaped Tibet after the 1959 uprising. He taught all over the world and there are entire monasteries dedicated to him. He passed away in 2012, and then Nyima Döndrup was born in 2014. He was discovered in this valley in 2017, and has since been studying in the area. It was a bizzare and incredibly special moment, meeting an 11 year old boy riding his bike who is a hugely revered spiritual figure. He was quiet and kind, and generously took a photo with us. We were all blown away by the encounter.

The rest of the afternoon was spent resting, and we enjoyed some delicious Thantuk (a Tibetan soup with thick broth and chunky dough like noodles) as well as a cup of tea and chocolate by the fire.

So not the most restful rest day, but a really fulfilling one that left us even more in awe of this incredible place and so excited for what’s to come.

David Norton

7mo

It just gets better and better each day. So happy for you both!

BrianDNorton

7mo

Altitude doesn’t seem to be a problem and the mountains sound magnificent keep up the great commentary