Ever since we arrived in Kyrgyzstan, Lenin Peak and the surrounding mountains had been staring at us, just asking us to head in and explore. They are the prominent mountain range visible from both Sary Tash and Sary Mogul, and create a dream-like backdrop for the whole area. After our time in the Alay Mountains, as well as a failed attempt about a week or so ago, we were really excited to finally get up there. Our objective was ‘Traveller’s Pass’, a 4,130m pass on the way to Camp One of Lenin Peak. There are also a few very cool looking 6,000m peaks that are considered more ‘hikes’ than ‘climbs’, but unfortunately we didn’t have time to give these a nudge this time. 

After we got out from the Heights of Alay trip we had a day and a half of heavy rain which only looked worse in the mountains, so we used this as an opportunity to rest and reset. It was still rainy but clearing when we got the taxi into Tulpar Lake, with plans to either stay in a Yurt or camp overnight before getting an early start on the walk the next morning. Once we got to Tulpar Lake we realized it wasn’t going to be very nice to stay there in the rain, so we put our jackets on and continued up to Lenin Peak Base camp, about two and a half kilometers further. There is just something special about walking in the rain (and snow!) that makes you feel so alive. 

It was an easy walk but we were all very wet and cold once we arrived. We found some of our friends from the HoA trek parked up at a very fancy cafe waiting for the weather to improve, and we were more than happy to join them with hot chocolates and pots of tea. Lenin Peak Base Camp is like a little village, with multiple different yurt camps and spots to eat. We had ended up at one of the fancier set ups with great facilities, including a shop, hot shower block and the cafe we were waiting at. We contemplated camping further up the valley but it was really cold and we were already quite high up, so we decided to make the most of the facilities and enjoy their fancy tents. These included beds, linen, towels, charging and a heater!! To compensate for the budget blow out, we ate sardines and crackers for dinner in the fancy cafe while asking them to fill up our tea pot with water for the third time…I am sure they loved us!!

While exploring the camp a little more we saw a sign for a “bath house” which looked to be a sauna… upon further investigation we realized our suspicions were correct, and suddenly the $50 we had spent on the tent seemed totally worth it. We got to enjoy the sauna for about 15 minutes before we got kicked out, turns out it was only for use by those paying for the very very expensive yurts. But what a great 15 minutes it was. Ask for forgiveness, not for permission I say!

The next morning we were up at the crack of dawn (actually it was still pitch black), to get up to Traveller’s Pass for sunrise. It was freezing cold, I had all my layers on and still couldn’t stop for longer than a couple of seconds without getting the shivers. It’s an easy walk, mostly along a valley with two steeper climbs to get you up to the pass, with really amazing views of the mountains the whole way up. At about 6 AM it started to get light with the sun hitting the surrounding peaks, and it first hit us just as we climbed up onto the pass!! From here we had the most amazing views of Lenin Peak right in front of us, it felt so close. People do say this is the best view in Kyrgyzstan and I understand why. There was a ridge up to the side of the pass that looked super achievable, so Josh and I scrambled up to get to a higher vantage point. With the ground slowly thawing underneath us some parts were a little dodgy, but we got up and the view was 100% worth it. I would have loved to stay there all day exploring, but we had a highway to get to! We high tailed it back to the camp where we enjoyed a coffee before walking back to Tulpar Lake. This time it was blue skies and totally still, a contrast to yesterday's treacherous walk in. 

We got a taxi back to Sary Mogul, and did some final shopping and packing before getting on the road to begin the mighty Pamir Highway and cross into Tajikistan! I was very pleased we managed to tick this walk off before leaving Kyrgyzstan and on such a beautiful day too.