I’m a big believer that the universe sends you little signals so you know you are on the right track. It’s not a coincidence that you get the perfect coffee on the morning of a major meeting, or that you and your sister happen to message each other at the same time. Our day in Galle Fort was no exception. It felt like a real affirmation to me that I had made the right decision coming on this trip, and that there will be opportunities for me and my unique strengths that will come my way in the future. It reinforced the importance of the connections you build with individuals, and the responsibility we all have to use these for the good and people and planet. 

Now I know this is a travel blog, so before I get all woo woo, let me give you some of the facts. Galle Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located on the southwest coast, and a key travel destination on most modern day Sri Lanka itineraries. However foreign visitors to the fort are by no means new. Galle Fort has been a key stop on trading routes for hundreds of years, due to its prime location along the Indian Ocean. The fort was originally built by the Portuguese in 1588 and later was captured in 1640 and fortified further by the Dutch. It was taken over by the British in 1796 and stayed in British control until 1948 when Sri Lanka finally became an independent island nation once again.

The fort has always been a diverse cultural hub, and still is today. As we toured the fort we saw places of worship of different religions, architecture influenced by many styles and antiques and trinkets from all over the world. Interestingly, we were told that ancient artifacts had been found in the area dating back to King Solomon, showing the level of history embedded in this special place. It has to be said, colonization is a real cornerstone of the Galle Fort. Despite its colonial roots, it was the presence of ancient connections between different civilizations and a modern day melting pot of culture that I felt most strongly. To be clear, I’m not saying that the colonization of Sri Lanka (three times!) wasn't terrible for this country. We discussed the role colonization played creating the cultural context that has made Galle Fort the special place it is today a lot over the course of the day. I’m still not 100% sure where I sit on it. 

Our day at the fort started with a walking tour with the writer, artist, curator and connector Juliet Coombs. Originally hailing from the UK, Juliet has now lived in the fort with her family for over 20 years. Her late husband’s family are ninth generation traders in Galle Fort! She has worked around the world as a war correspondent and photojournalist, oftentimes award winning. She has authored a number of books, many which tell stories of the people of Sri Lanka. She’s also an advocate for the animals and landscapes of this amazing country, working on the creation of the Pekoe Trail, and now protecting elephants with her latest project, https://www.instagram.com/elephantstorytrails/. She is also a mother to two wonderful boys, and from our time spent walking the streets of the fort, is clearly such an important part of this diverse community. The smiles and conversations we shared with others throughout our walk were telltale signs of her unique gift for connection and making others feel special. When we arrived she said that she wants her guests to leave the fort as friends, and she so graciously made us feel like we could return at any time, or maybe never want to leave in the first place!

Throughout the morning Juliet showed us so many things we would have missed on our own. There were cultural traditions like hanging chilli and lime above doorways to keep out the spirits and the different types of masks used in Sri Lankan culture. We discussed historic stories such as the use of shipping chests repurposed as modern day furniture, or the coral used to build the walls of the buildings. But perhaps my favourite part was the introductions to the artisans and characters of the fort, whether that was to pick up a fresh roti and chai or check in on a jewellery project. Juliet also helped us work out a plan for the rest of the day which included walking the walls, a cheap and cheerful lunch stop, beach time and of course browsing the many shops, before we met for drinks again later. We loved the history steeped into every step we took in the fort, and the people we met along the way. The jeweller who happily showed us around his whole studio with no pressure to buy, the lighthouse keeper who took us up to the top of the lighthouse just after sunset for magic night time views of the fort, and the mixologist who proudly championed Sri Lankan arrack in all his drinks. 

The highlight of the day for me though was sharing a cold glass of Chardonnay at Juliet’s studio above the gallery at the end of the day. She knew we were on a budget so invited us to her place, an intimately thoughtful gesture that broke the fourth wall of ‘tour guide’ and truly invited us into her space. She had bought some nice cheese from the supermarket, and sitting there eating, drinking and chatting while surrounded by the most amazing art was a pinch myself moment. The power went out (still repairing from the monkey), and we kept talking in the dark before moving to a nearby historic hotel for our first taste of Arrack (a distilled coconut liqueur), as the perfect ending to a very special day. 

Seeing the space Juliet creates for all those she encounters was very inspiring, and the way she lit up when discussing her family, friends and her projects was how I want to feel about the things I choose to do in my life. Whether it was giving a voice to the stateless Tamil tea pickers, protecting the remaining elephants, or checking her sons school exam marks, Juliet approaches this world with a mixture of honesty, grit, passion and love that I deeply admire. And to get to experience this all in one day, within our first two weeks of travel… such a treat that will continue to define our next steps.